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JOURNAL

Notes on Sustainability

We want to broaden the conversation around sustainability, beyond what we do at hoibo, sharing with you notes from what we're currently diving into. 

First up is an article from Patagonia; Changing the Fabric of our Lives.  We’re inspired by Patagonias ongoing commitment to not only do better within their own company but to support others to do the same.

Hope you enjoy the read!

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Changing the Fabric of Our Lives

7 Min Read  

Can a cotton T-shirt really help stop the climate crisis?

India is the largest producer of cotton, the world’s most popular natural fiber. Currently, less than one percent of all cotton is grown organically. Tim Davis

The dead bird was a final straw for Muleshoe, Texas, cotton farmer Jimmy Wedel. His father had been helping him plant a field of cotton when he spotted a pheasant’s nest. An avid birdwatcher, the elder Wedel decided to skip a few rows to avoid the nest. The next morning, the two men found the mother bird dead near the nest. Despite their efforts to protect her, she’d been poisoned by the field’s insecticide.

“It was the perfect storm of three things coming together,” Wedel recalls. “I was concerned about the wildlife; I was concerned that the chemicals weren’t working as well as they could; and I really hadn’t made any money.” The costs were just too high for the price he’d fetch. And it made it harder to sleep at night. Wedel decided to transition his cotton to organic in 1993, despite the fact that organic cotton was a novelty—then, and even today.

“When the whole world tells you, ‘No, you can’t, you can’t,’ we said, ‘Yes, actually, you can.’”

Cotton is the world’s most popular natural fiber. Around 25 million tons are produced worldwide every year. But conventional cotton remains a dirty business. It’s responsible for 16 percent of insecticide use, despite only using less than 3 percent of the world’s farmable land. And over the past 25 years, all those harsh chemicals have made US agriculture almost 50 times more toxic to honeybees and other beneficial insects.

Additionally, most conventional cotton is engineered to withstand herbicides, often made from the carcinogen glyphosate. The runoff from these toxic chemicals pollutes our rivers and lakes, and produces dead zones in the ocean. It even enters our food supply.

Wedel knew he was a part of this toxic cycle and decided to make a change.

“Around 10 to 15 years in, I got to where I didn’t like dealing with chemicals,” Wedel recalls.

He decided to transition his farms to organic and helped form the Texas Organic Cotton Marketing Cooperative, where today he serves as president and supplies organic cotton to companies, including Patagonia. “When the whole world tells you, ‘No, you can’t, you can’t,’ we said, ‘Yes, actually, you can.’”

Meanwhile, in 1994, the Patagonia board of directors was grappling with similar concerns when they decided to take the risk and put a $20 million bet on organic cotton.

“If we continue to make clothes with conventionally grown cotton, knowing what we know now, we’re toast anyway,” our founder, Yvon Chouinard, said. “Let’s do it; let’s go organic.”

We went 100 percent organic by 1996, knowing full well that there wasn’t yet a large market for it. But having an environmentally driven mission was incongruous with being part of the problem, explains Helena Barbour, Patagonia’s vice president, global sportswear. “We took a really hard look in the mirror and realized some very significant changes needed to be made.” The decision was costly, time consuming and required rethinking supply chains. But it was the right thing to do. So, we set forth three goals: to sell the line successfully, to encourage growth within the organic cotton farming sector and to influence the apparel industry to use organically grown cotton.

Twenty-four years have passed, and while we achieved the first goal, the second and third remain more aspirational. Even with our commitment, the larger cotton industry has remained unchanged at less than one percent organic. Few apparel companies have followed suit. As a result, most of the cotton we wear and sleep on is still grown with harsh chemicals using environmentally destructive processes. Our transition to organic cotton, though, has made a difference: for us, the farmers and the soil. But more work must happen to move the needle toward organic—to push for necessary change. The health of the planet and its people depend on it.

Beyond One Percent

It’s time to ask what we can do to promote and scale up the use of organic fiber in the apparel industry,” says Barbour.

“This is about way more than what we can do as one company. We can, and should, do more to help increase the demand for organic cotton.”

Getting the world beyond this less than one percent organic cotton market is not an easy undertaking. It takes around three years for farmers to get their crops certified as organic when transitioning from conventional practices. Without certification, many organic growers must sell their crop as conventional cotton and, therefore, can’t fetch an organic premium. Farmers struggle financially, often lacking sufficient credit access, land titles or collateral in the eyes of commercial banks. Consequently, they may seek assistance from informal and often unscrupulous lenders. Within that time period, crop failure and added labor costs can make or break their business. For some farmers, there’s simply not enough incentive. That is, unless they have support.

To help more conventional farms transition to organic cotton, we’re financially backing farmers and buying their crops during these transitional years through a program in Peru called Cotton in Conversion. Peru is the leading producer of organic cotton in Latin America. By supporting the farmers during these transitions, we can help increase the overall supply of organic cotton in the market.

“It’s great to work in a company where we can try to point the ship and create change,” says Barbour. “I would really like to think that, as we all become more aware of going organic in our food, we will also wake up to using more organic fibers in our clothing.”

Regenerative Organic: Beyond Less Harm to More Good

It was hot and humid when we first arrived in India in October 2018 to see firsthand who and what we were working with. Unlike other cotton farms we’d toured, the fields appeared to be in a state of chaos.

But on a closer look, we saw intent. Where on a conventional farm rows are separated by soil, we saw marigolds, lentils, chickpeas and vegetables growing between and around the field of orange-pink blossoms of early cotton. There was life. You could literally pick up a vegetable amid the cotton plants and eat it right there.

But more than that, these additional crops had a purpose. They were there to help maintain fertile and pest-free topsoil, naturally adding nitrogen and potassium to the soil. They were effectively replacing fertilizers and drawing carbon back into the soil. They were also there to increase the livelihood of subsistence farmers and their families.

This was going beyond organic. Regenerative organic finds solutions within nature: It rehabilitates soil, respects animal welfare and improves the lives of farmers.

“Organic cotton is just the beginning,” says Rachel Kepnes, Patagonia’s manager of supply chain social responsibility, farms and special programs. “Regenerative organic is about resilience in the face of the problems that arise.”

In 2018, Patagonia partnered with Dr. Bronner’s and the Rodale Institute to form a coalition called the Regenerative Organic Alliance, a team dedicated to setting standards and certification for the practices of regenerative organic agriculture—the outcome of which is the Regenerative Organic Certification (ROC). The approach is not meant to overwrite existing organic standards but instead to help support farmers, ranchers, brands and nonprofits harness regenerative organic practices.

Among the first 18 global pilot programs was a Patagonia initiative dedicated to growing cotton on more than 150 small-scale farms working toward regenerative organic certification in India, the world’s largest producer of cotton.

“We were hoping that the additional cover crops and intercrops would produce more income for the farmers,” says Kepnes. “We were also hoping that the improved soil health would help the farmers be more climate-resilient, keeping their farms healthy through various weather events related to climate change.”

A farmer inspects a cotton plant on one of more than 150 small-scale farms working toward regenerative organic certification in India. Brightly colored marigolds are planted among other plants in this natural system to attract insects as a nontoxic form of pest control. Tim Davis

Within the next year, these farmers were able to produce enough cotton for our first line of Regenerative Organic Certification Pilot Cotton T-shirts, available now.

“Small and midsized farms around the world are suffering from a commodity-based model dominated by large agricultural interests that leverage everything against the farmers,” says Elizabeth Whitlow, executive director at the Regenerative Organic Alliance. “We’re going to change this by offering an alternative path to these farms with our newly launched ROC program.

“We’re rewarding farmers for adopting regenerative organic practices that build healthy soil and communities,” Whitlow adds. “Our goal is to disrupt the current paradigms of extractive, industrialized agricultural systems that pollute our water and air with cancer-causing pesticides and cause unprecedented erosion of topsoil.”

What will success look like? If the farmers whom Patagonia supports can help improve the health of the soil and increase crop productivity, we stand a chance of reversing the loss of soil, while keeping farms and farmers healthy.

“Soil organic matter (carbon-rich topsoil) has very serious benefits,” explains Stephanie Karba, an environmental researcher at Patagonia. “It stabilizes the soil itself and reduces erosion. If you increase soil organic matter by one percent, the soil has the ability to hold more than 20,000 gallons of water. Any increase in organic matter will help the soil retain more water.”

There’s even hope that this method of farming could contribute to addressing the climate crisis itself. Healthy, undisturbed soil also has the potential to draw down excess carbon from the atmosphere. This process, called carbon sequestration, occurs as follows: During photosynthesis, plants extract sugars from carbon dioxide. Soil draws sugars from the plants’ roots and feeds nearby bacteria and fungi. Those microorganisms, in turn, transform soil minerals into nutrients that benefit the plants. They also convert sugars into organic matter that can trap carbon for up to centuries.

Some evidence exists that this process might make a real difference by capturing more carbon than other methods of farming. Land-based climate solutions could help deliver a third of the greenhouse gas reductions needed by 2030 to keep the world on track to the meet the goals of the Paris Agreement, per the United Nations’ Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC). In the end, whether or not farming cotton for T-shirts can help solve the climate crisis won’t diminish its importance.

“ROC is creating a pinnacle of agricultural practices,” says Elissa Foster, Patagonia’s senior manager of product responsibility. “It’s asking what is the best that a farmer can do? It’s a path that is driving conversation in the industry and hopefully inspiring farmers and brands to think about how agriculture can benefit the climate crisis we’re experiencing right now.”

This story is from the February 2020 edition of the Patagonia catalog.

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The Beauty of Experience

True Love Lasts - a mending practise

Hoi Bo began with the intention to create pieces that were beautiful, useful, and lasting. 

I always imagined how they would look when they were well worn, and well loved. How you used them, and lived with them, was an important part of the design process. Each piece was a reflection of you. 

Our clothing and accessories are designed to be repairable; we make them with durable fabrics, and a lasting quality. I want you to live your every day, and simply be, in cloth that moves and wears with you, that softens and ages with use and the passing of time, that is made with respect for people and the planet. 

True Love Lasts, our monthly community practise, offers a hub for fellow textile artists, design lovers, and the sustainably focused. We gather to share and restore what we love to wear and use.

Mending matters - the beauty of a visible repair

You live in the pieces you love. Visible mending is about embracing the wear and tear that naturally happens with well loved clothing. It’s a visual diary of the moments lived and retold in stitches. These restorations, done by hand, tell your unique and personal stories. 

Visible mending extends the lifespan of your clothing; wearing more, washing less, and keeping pieces in your closet longer, are some of the most sustainable practises to adopt when it comes to clothing care.

Why a mending Club?

True Love Lasts is about creating an intimate space for our community to explore, learn, and share, ways of loving and caring for the pieces you have. Whether the art of mending was passed down to you or you’ve never used a needle and thread—this is an open space for learning and everyone is welcome.

We’ve been inspired by the old and the new—everything from beautiful antique Sashiko work and Boro Cloth to contemporary artists like Celia Pym and Rachel Meade Smith.  Check out our pinterest page to get some ideas for mending your piece!

Beautiful, strong, natural fabrics are our passion. We’ll have some offcuts from our studio in linen and cotton for you to restore your favourite piece.  If you have offcuts of your own you would like to share, feel free to bring them!

What to bring…

Start simple! A needle and thread, a pair of scissors or snips is all you need.  Get a feel for the craft before you build your toolbox. I’ve included a few specialty sewing items on the list below that people in the community like to work with. Me—personally... I only use a needle and thread. 

One thing you may want to consider, in addition to a needle and thread, is a tailors pencil. If you’re wanting to create a pattern with your stitches, it’s helpful to draw a guide to keep your stitches in check! 

If you’re brand new to mending youtube can be an amazing resource to pick up the basics.

Tailors pencil 
Needle
My favourite thimble...
Darning Egg
Embroidery Hoop

Let me know what you’ll be bringing to work on!  I can’t wait to see!

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When
The first Saturday of every month from noon - 3pm
Kicking off Saturday, March 7th

Where
Hoibo, 2nd floor
15 Trinity Street
Historic Distillery District

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Don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions.

e: hello@hoibo.com
Tel: (647) 852-5488

To wear, to use, for days, for years.

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True Love Lasts — A mending practise.

You’re invited!

True Love Lasts — A mending practise.
Stories of you told in stitches. 

Join us on the first Saturday of every month for True Love Lasts — a mending practise. Restore the pieces you love over coffee and good conversation; come share, learn, and explore new methods of mending and care to extend the lifetime of your pieces. All are welcome!

A Brief History

Sashiko is the art of mending; a functional embroidery technique used to beautifully restore the pieces you love.  Sashiko means “little stabs”, a reflection of the running stitches that makes up sashikos geometric patterns; often described as “functional embroidery”, it is a balance between an appreciation of beauty and a practical technique.

Sustainability

The Japanese word Mottainai has a two part meaning: do not waste, and be thankful.  In traditional Japanese culture nothing was wasted — byproducts created from the process of making one item was repurposed and used in the creation of another — never wasting what is valuable. Mottainai is a philosophy we live by in our studio practise.  For True Love Lasts we have been collecting the fabric offcuts from our studio, for you to use, to restore your favourite pieces. 
At Hoi bo our collection is cut from strong natural materials and sewn with a lasting quality — pieces for you to live in — live freely and simply, in clothing that moves and evolves with you.

Community

Bringing together our community to restore the pieces we love, so we can keep them in our lives for longer — a natural expression of our values.  
For our own mending projects on the go we have been drawing inspiration from Sashiko, Boro Cloth, Celia Pym, Rachel Meade Smith, Latre Art & Style and many more.

   

        

DETAILS

A casual environment where all skill levels are welcome; come and explore how to extend the life of your garments in a warm, judgment free, communal setting. No need to sign up, drop in and out as you please. 

Bring your favourite well worn piece of clothing to work on and whatever tools you’ll need: needles, thimble, embroidery floss, snips.  We’ll share offcuts from our studio: fine linen, cotton, and wool for you to use. 

This is a self guided practice in a community setting so if you are a beginner we recommend checking out these videos beforehand to get familiar. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_rqg52EL2Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H464u4q_JGk&t=242s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWI-3lCq_Hw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTQbjHl1YFI

We’re working on putting together a guide on where to pick up essential tools that we’ll share with you soon!

________________________________________________________________________

When
The first Saturday of every month from noon - 3pm
Kicking off Saturday, March 7th

Where
Hoibo, 2nd floor
15 Trinity Street
Historic Distillery District

Don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions.
e: hello@hoibo.com
Tel: (647) 852-5488

__________________________________________________________________________

What we wear can be a reflection of the values we carry. For us, visible mending is about embracing the wear and tear that naturally happens with well loved clothing and seeing it as a reflection of a life lived with beauty and appreciation. The time spent restoring your favourite piece is your story told in stitches. 

To wear, to use, for days, for years.

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Exhale Supernova

 Exhale Supernova is the expression of a fundamentally new ecosystem for our studio practice. It's not just about creating another shirt or bag. Exhale Supernova lives and breathes in the space between design, craft and technology, where we explore new ideas and push paradigms. It's an honest and deep conversation about what sustainability truly means.

 

By it's very nature, the process of cut-and-sew manufactuing of apparel means that there is significant textile waste resulting from the leftover fabric between individual pattern pieces. Experts estimate that this waste can be as high as 15% of the total amount of material used to produce each garment. Off-cuts from garment production, in ideal situations are recycled, but more often than not, end up as landfill. This is no longer environmentally sustainable.

   

Through our exploration of new knit technologies, we can contribute to the elimination of waste generated by cut-and-sew manufacturing, which is the most widely used method of clothing production. Because our shapes are knitted, not cut, material waste is less than 2%.

Exhale Supernova is about crafting a life with a quietly thoughtful approach and a spirit of "just enough"; where true worth is more than a beautiful object — it's about the journey from here to there. 



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Sashiko - To wear, to use, for days, for years.

My love of sashiko is in the intention of the art - to preserve and restore the pieces you wear most often. The pieces that reflect your life experiences and memories. It’s the art of aging gracefully.  

Originating in ancient Japan, Sashiko means “little stabs” - a reflection of the running stitches that makes up sashiko’s geometric patterns. Sashiko is often described as “functional embroidery” and is a balance between an appreciation of beauty and a practical technique.


Sashiko is thought to have started out during the Edo era (1615-1868) in Japan and was well- established as a home-art by the Meiji era (1868-1912).

Considered a “folk textile” produced and used by the peasant classes, sashiko was winter work for women in fishing and farming communities. The embroidery technique was used to extend the life of worn fabrics and clothing in a beautiful way.
Mending textiles and clothing was essential as industrialized fabric production didn’t come to Japan until the 1870’s and even then, was still out of reach for many people.

Sashiko is the basis for Boro which means “tattered rags”. Traditionally done with white cotton threads on indigo blue dyed cloth, this home-art is a process were cloth is neatly patched together using sashiko stitches to cover and reinforce worn areas.
The art of Boro extended the lifespan of clothing and household textiles. When garments wore out they would be quilted together creating stronger, warmer clothing.


The Japanese word Mottainai has a two part meaning; do not waste and be thankful.  In traditional Japanese culture nothing was wasted — byproducts created from the process of making one item were repurposed and used in the creation of another — never wasting what is valuable. Mottainai is a guiding principle we live by in our studio practise and reflect on as we set our sustainability goals for the future.
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